Window Film FAQ's
This page contains answers to commonly-asked questions about window film.
Most cars have a black ceramic edge on the rear window. Sometimes this ceramic edge is straight and flat, sometimes it will have a dotted edge. These black ceramic dots are quite thick on most cars and prevent the window film from sticking to the area between the dots. This results in a whitish looking strip trimming the glass which is unavoidable.
A certain amount of small bubbles may be apparent in a window film installation and is quite typical. As a general rule one should stand at least a few feet back from the window and see if these micro-bubbles are still visible, also pre-existing flaws or scratches and metal deposits on the glass are often much more noticeable after the windows are tinted. However, it is important to keep in mind that we do our absolute best to install your tint using industry standard methods and care.
When possible we prefer to install rear windows in a one-piece installation. It may be necessary for certain vehicles to use a two-piece installation. A two-piece install consists of two strips of window tint used to cover the rear window which is seamed along a centre heater line and should be unnoticeable for the most part. Two-piece films are considered standard and quite acceptable although we use a one-piece whenever possible for aesthetic reasons.
Modern films have excellent scratch-resistant coatings. Older films had no scratch resistant coatings and some were ruined the first time they were cleaned unless extreme care was used. Today's films have very hard scratch resistant coatings that allow for normal cleaning. The manufacturers recommend that no abrasives be used. A scratch resistant coating is not a scratch proof coating, care should be taken when working around filmed windows with paint scrapers or other metal objects.
All our window films used are scratch resistant and do not fade, peel or bubble like other films. This will ensure that high quality finish will remain.
We recommend that you do not open your windows for at least two to four weeks from the time of installation. Window films generally take a few weeks to cure properly and adhere to the window. Opening a window prematurely can lift the tint requiring you to bring the vehicle back to us so to reapply the film or possibly even replace it at an additional charge.
At night you may notice that the light from headlights will reflect off of the rear demister lines. This is caused by the film having to bend slightly around the raised demister line, it varies from car to car, and there is nothing that can be done about it.
During the film installation most of the moisture will have been removed, the small amount remaining will leave small water bubbles or a slightly cloudy look. This is normal and should be expected. Do not attempt to pierce a water bubble during the dry-out time. Water bubbles and the cloudy look will eventually dissipate. Attempting to pierce a water bubble will damage your film and is not covered by the warranty. Window films usually take a few weeks to fully cure and may have a milky look until then.
Certain climate conditions can extend the dry-out time for as long as 30 to 60 days after installation. Cold and non sunny weather conditions can lengthen the dry-out time whilst warm weather and direct sun light exposure will shorten it. The dry-out time for metallized high performance films will always take longer than conventional non reflective film. If slow drying occurs, do not become alarmed. The trapped moisture will dry-out completely.
Do not clean the film until 30 days after installation. This will help secure proper curing of the special mounting adhesive to the glass. Window film may be cleaned with a soft clean cloth and plain water mixed with a small solution of plain fairy liquid. Ammonia products should not be used.